"Information about Torres del Paine and Patagonia (Chile and Argentina)"
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Mountaineering

The park has attracted many different climbers from many places in the world because of its steep and impressive mountains.

The first mountaineer was Father Alberto Maria D´Agostini, who in 1916 started his expeditions to Patagonia, in the area between Balmaceda Mountain and Paine Massif.  In 1918 he presented an exposition of Patagonia in different cities in Chile.

Guido Monzino Count, mountaineer and passionate about nature, advised by Father D´Agostini, organized the first expedition to the Patagonian Andes, of which the main purpose was climbing the principal summit of Paine Grande Mountain. For this adventure, he brought the famous climbers called “Grandes Murailles”, with Bich and Carrel in the group. The 27 of December of 1957 they conquered for the first time the Principal Summit of Paine Grande and later the North Torre today known as Torre Monzino.

The news of this great feat was widespread with a movie and a book called  “Italia in Patagonia”. Paine Massif started to be a destiny for all mountaineers and climbers.

In 1963, an English and an Italian expedition camped close to the base of the Torres with the objective to be the first ones to climb the Torre Central (2,800 m) and the Torre Sur (2,850 m). They could not agree of who would climb which mountain, so both expeditions started with Torre Central. The English expedition had arrived one day early to the park, so they were in advantage and some of them descended to remove the nails so the Italians would not use them. Finally Chris Bonington and Don Whillams reached the summit on the 16th of January of 1963. Then they started with the South Torre. The Italians climbed the north east face of South Torre, and the English the south face and both groups had to wait because of the bad weather. They only needed one day of good weather to finish their climb. The 8th of February, Giancarlo Frigieri and his group reached the summit  The English were only 300 m. away and when they heard the shouting of the Italians they gave up and went down.

Most of the mountains in the park have been climbed, but it is worth saying that the climbers who have made it possible are professional climbers, because the weather and the rock conditions make it a technical climb.

Mountaineering
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Andres Albers

Mountaineering
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Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile Coca Lyon

Almirante Nieto

Mountaineering

La Mascara

Mountaineering

Aleta del Tiburon

Mountaineering
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Maurice Dides

Mountaineering
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Maurice Dides

Mountaineering
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Andres Albers

Mountaineering
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Andres Albers

Mountaineering
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Andres Albers

Mountaineering
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Andres Albers

Mountaineering
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Andres Albers

Mountaineering
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Andres Albers

FIRST ASCENSIONS AT TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK

Mountain Year Height m Expedition
Almirante Nieto 1937 2.670 Stefan Zuck y Hans Teufel
Paine Grande (Principal Summit) 1957 3.050 Camilo Pellissier, Leonardo Carrel, Jean Bich, Pierino Pession (Italian expedition Guido Monzino)
Torre Norte o Monzino 1958 2.600 Italian expedition Guido Monzino
Torre Central 2.850 1963 Don Williams and Chris Bonington (English expedition)
Torre Sur 2.900 1963 Armando Aste, Vasco Taldo, Nando Nusdeo, Josve Aiazi y Carlo Casati. (Club Alpino de Monza Expedition)
Fortaleza 2.900 1968 Dave Nicol, J. Gregory, G. Hibbera. (English expedition)
Escudo 2.700 1968 Italian Expedition
Cuerno Principal 2.600 1968 Eduardo Garcia, Osvaldo Latorre, Gastón Oyarzún, Raúl Aguilera. (Universidad de Chile Expedition)
Ostrava 2.250 1969 Volcan Sagan, Jiri Torrecala, Jaromir Voiny. (Checoslovaca Expedition)
Trono Blanco 2.430 1969 Leos Harka, Pavel Klimza y Gastón Oyarzún. (Checoslovaca and  Universidad de Chile Expedition)
Catedral 2.150 1971 Roger Wheeii, Dave Nicol, Lee, Bob Smith y Chris Jackson.
La Espada 2.050 1971 Janneth Fatte, Paul Thath, P.H. Anderson. (South African Expedition)
Cuerno Norte 2.400 1971 South African Expedition
La Mascara 1.850 1976 Dave- Gill Chessmond y Phil Dawson. (Peruvian expedition)
Aleta de Tiburón 1.850 1977 Richard C, SAhacketnon (Irish and Indian Expedition)

MOUNTAINEERING REQUIREMENTS
These are all the requirements for the expeditions inside the park:

Fulfill all regulations of the park and CONAF.

Foreigners need an authorization of DIFROL (Dirección de Fronteras y Límites del Estado), which can be obtained at  the Provincial government or the embassy.

All authorizations can be made in the Administration of the park.

The license is without cost.

If all documents are in order, they will give you two copies of the climbing authorization, one for the expedition, and the other must be delivered in the closest entrance to the park.